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Then if you don't have a HDD you can use, I would add one for an extra $70-80. Note that these are actually quite powerful machines, both are more than you need for dolphin, and should be able to knock out 1080p60 with ultra settings on fallout4. If this is getting a bit expensive, there's a few things we can trim down the cost with, but it'll lower performance accordingly. Similarly, if you have a bit more cash and want to get the next step up, you can get a geforce 1070 or above, and the cpu will run with that perfectly fine.

As for failure rates: HDDs do fail. SSDs fail too. There is always a chance hardware can fail - never have anything you *really* can't live without in only one place - make sure you have backups of important stuff!

The chance that a specific piece of hardware will fail somewhat depends on the make and model - there may be statistics people publish on failure rates for specific use cases you can lookup, but I don't have anywhere near enough hardware to provide anything other than anecdotal evidence (which for me is "Well-known brand, not the cheapest model, none of them have failed on me). Note, this also heavily depends on use cases - the demands that (say) a massive data storage company makes on a disk could be very different to what you use it for. And the failure rates could be dramatically different as a result.

Also remember, if you aren't upgrading an old PC, you'll need mouse/keyboard/screen/windows key on top of the hardware listed above, and you may want to add a case fan or two if the case doesn't already ship with them.

And if you are buying a new monitor, that opens up another whole complication of adaptive sync (Freesync for AMD or GSync for Nvidia). I personally believe this technology is incredibility good - I think is adds significantly to the enjoyment of games, as it smooths out the screen update so it's always in line with how fast the graphics card can output frames. I feel this tech alone is "as good as" going halfway towards the next tier of GPUs (that is, a 1060 with gsync "feels" only a little worse than a 1070 without). Another thing to take into consideration here is that, for an equivalent monitor, freesync tends to be noticeably cheaper than gsync. This may end up causing you to prefer the radeon GPU, as (unfortunately) the 2 display technologies aren't compatible with each other (so if you have an nvidia card with a freesync monitor it won't be used - same with an AMD card and a gsync monitor).

As for the performance of freesync vs gsync, in tests, gsync tends to be a little better (wider refresh range, better response times), but it is slight enough that if you're not testing explicitly for those things (say, playing games instead of running display benchmarks), they're close enough you can barely tell the difference. If money is no object, however, a top-end nvidia card with gsync monitor /is/ slightly superior.

If you are getting a new monitor - I would strongly recommend looking at something with one of the adaptive sync technologies.

As you can see there's a large number of variables. I'm sure there's a build that'll fit any budget, so if you have a hard limit, or an amount you want to spend, a dollar value would be useful to tune the builds.
(11-01-2017, 03:00 PM)Helios Wrote: [ -> ]failure rates of HDDs are pretty low as long as you're not like, bumping or banging on the system while it's running.

If you're really paranoid about failure rates, just buy 2 HDDs and RAID 1 them. Most motherboards come with features in chipset to do RAID 0/1

I've had more data loss due to fs corruption than disk failure - and RAID doesn't help with that at all...
i was planing on using a roku smart tv for a monitor
i have a keyboard and mouse i can use
and as for a budget limit 1500$
(11-01-2017, 03:36 PM)steamjunk1997 Wrote: [ -> ]i was planing on using a roku smart tv for a monitor
i have a keyboard and mouse i can use
and as for a budget limit 1500$

TVs tend to make for poor monitors, I assume it's 1080p 60hz (so much more than the radeon 580/geforce 1060 would be wasted - so there's not much point spending more than the builds listed above), and they often have multiple frames of lag as they process the image (and IMHO make it worse most of the time Wink. Some TVs have a "gaming" mode that may help with this, but even then I wouldn't trade my 1440p monitors for a tv... Plus, a "nice" mechanical-switch keyboard and decent mouse can make playing games quite a bit more enjoyable if your current equipment is poor - if it's already pretty good and you're happy with it don't spend money just for the sake of it though.

But you can always update that later - half the advantage of being a PC "enthusiast" is you can update different parts in a rolling fashion, as and when they get outdated or a significantly better replacement can be found at a good price.

But once again, don't forget windows - that's another $100 for Win 10 home - make sure you install the 64bit version too (though you can often find deals to get it a little cheaper than that - I tend to keep an eye on https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapcsales/ )
when it comes to anything besides pixel based games
i can stand at decent res as long as im not missing frames noticeable.
You can save money on windows simply by using Microsoft's accessibility offer from their website. They don't actually check.

Supposedly Microsoft is still activating Win 7/8/8.1 serials for Windows 10 straight out of the install though, but I haven't tested that.
https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/accessibility/windows10upgrade
that right
how would you install that on a blank pc?
Use your existing keys for Windows 7/8/8.1 when Windows 10 asks you for a key. I've confirmed this still works as of 3 months ago.

I have an insignia Roku 4k TV that I enjoy gaming on, I don't see any lag or frame loss. I have a ps3/ps4/switch/pc connected to it over HDMI and don't have any issue with any of them. But you may want to get an actual computer monitor because TVs are pretty big and way more expensive.
(11-01-2017, 06:16 PM)KHg8m3r Wrote: [ -> ]Use your existing keys for Windows 7/8/8.1 when Windows 10 asks you for a key. I've confirmed this still works as of 3 months ago.

I have an insignia Roku 4k TV that I enjoy gaming on, I don't see any lag or frame loss. I have a ps3/ps4/switch/pc connected to it over HDMI and don't have any issue with any of them. But you may want to get an actual computer monitor because TVs are pretty big and way more expensive.

I assume as the OP said they "can't touch" the old computer, they can't migrate the windows key onto a new machine. Only if this is /replacing/ another machine can you really do that.

Another thing to keep an eye out for is Microsoft often do education discounts if you're a student - sometimes even freebies is your course offers an MSDN subscription (pretty common at university level in anything remotely computer-related)
Usually the key is display on a sticker on the outside of the computer case, and is good for a few computers/installs. Concurrent installs is a different matter and depends on your key that you have, but it never hurts to try.
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