im currently building a gaming computer on a budget of 600$ If it helps anyone i already have a nintendo wii and super mario galaxy 1 and 2 mario kart wii and sonic colors and super smash bros brawl the current specs im looking to use are here
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/2YyZA I honestly just want the best value for my money this includes keyboard and mouse also do you think this computer will handle dolphin will and if you have better builds please post below thank you
Get the Z87 and i5-4670 instead. You´ll probably be able to run those games OK but don´t expect constant full speed.
Get 2x4GB RAM instead of just 1 DIMM. Dual channel is faster
14$ power supply ! You sure have gut to do that
That power supply is no name . By all mean it will not work like it's advertised
Cheap out on PSU , you will kill the whole system later
http://www.technibble.com/why-you-should...-supplies/
Look at 12v rail , efficiency . Most normal PSU have at least 80% efficiency (80+) while no name PSU only have 50% efficiency or even less
What does this mean ? a 480W no name PSU real output wattage = 480x50% = 240W real power
PSU :
EVGA 430W
CPU : i3 4130 @ 3.4GHz . In dolphin benchmark , i3 4130 @ 3.4GHz is faster than i5 3570k @ 4.2GHz since Dolphin is a dual core application
Mobo :
Gigabyte H81M
Memory/Ram :
Gskill Ripjaws X Series Dual Channel 2x4GB
GPU : Same GPU
Gaming mouse
Anker 8200dpi lazer gaming mouse
If you want the best performance in Dolphin , swap that GTX 750Ti to GTX 750 , swap that i3 to i5 4670k that support overclocking , swap that H81 mobo to MSI Z87 G41 mobo that support OC . Since the new Maxwell GTX 750 power consumption is so low , you don't need to change the PSU (stick with EVGA 430W)
I'm going to reword it for you this time
anything lower than 80PLUS Bronze is usually not really worth it, since everything below bronze is made much cheaper.
I'd recommend something like
this, and while it's still on sale. Hell, it's even the same steal of a price here in Canada.
Also, efficiency does NOT mean how much of it's power it can give out at any given time, and anyone who told you that is a filthy goddamned liar. Efficiency is the percent of the power drawn from the wall that can be put to the computer. PSUs are required to be rated by what they give to the computer, NOT what they draw from the wall.
BUT, there is a completely different reason why a cheap 480 can't put out 480. It is because cheaper power supplies are rated by max peak, and proper power supplies are rated by max consistent, normally. And cheap PSUs are often also rated at their optimum temperature, massively inflating scores, while less cheap ones are safely rated at normal operating temperature.
EDIT: But yeah, hardly any good PSUs exist below $50 ($45 in the US), other than the rare good 80PLUS white and the occasional low-power green PSU (like the Antec Earthwatts 380D, which, unfortunately, is still not below $50 in most regions)
I calculated a knock off 600W PSU before (about 10$) . To deliver 300W total output , it will drain 600W power input
Basically , I will pay double electric bill for half of the power I need . The more efficient PSU, the less power that is lost as heat and the lower the cooling requirements .
But, the thing is, PSUs are SUPPOSED to be rated by their max output, not their max draw. Constant or peak isn't defined, but people like it more when the rating is constant.
Kin is right on this one. And don't forget voltage jitter as another reason not to trust the wattage specs. A cheap PSU might deliver the promised wattage but with a high jitter.
I second all of admins recommendations. I generally steer clear of recommending rosewill PSUs (although some of them are decent including the one that kin linked) and he definitely does not need anywhere close to 650 watts.