Dolphin, the GameCube and Wii emulator - Forums

I'm not sure about the OS now. I don't have the original install CD, so if I format the disc I won't be able to re-install the OS. But if I get the SSD I would want to install the OS on the SSD anyways. At first I thought I could simply upgrade to Windows 8 (which would wipe all data and install the OS), but I figured that might still be a hassle. Adding an OS would be another $100.

The 400R is the same price as the 500R, so I got the 500R (removable HDD cage seems to be the only difference), and that is the cheapest modular Corsair PSU (well, it's only $8 more than the 500W version).

I think waiting for the 800 series is a good idea. The 760 is basically a 660 Ti Boost, while the 800 series are supposed to have a new architecture. And because I don't plan on gaming on Ultra on crazy high resolutions, I think a 650 Ti should be enough for Dolphin/PCSX2/PC gaming in HD. And it's pretty cheap too.

(I was thinking about getting a PS3 instead until I found out PCSX2 is capable of outputting games in much higher quality than any of the HD remakes on the PS3, but then that brings up the question of if I want to spend 4x the cost of something just to play something in 1080p instead of 720p)

Those last couple of questions were rhetorical! The "can I build it?" question had more to do with me being lazy than anything else

Anyways, it turns out that I may not be able to use the 1400x900 monitor. I alraedy have the other peripherals (game pad, keyboard, mouse, just need bluetooth dongle and wireless sensor bar), would you recommend any particular monitors (hopefully one in HD, with HDMI, hopefully under $200)...

EDIT: "Kingston HyperX 4GB (2 x 2GB) DDR3-1600 Memory operating voltage of 1.65V exceeds the Intel Haswell CPU recommended maximum of 1.5V+5% (1.575V). This memory module may run at a reduced clock rate to meet the 1.5V voltage recommendation, or may require running at a voltage greater than the Intel recommended maximum." - PC Part Picker

Should I be worried about this?

turtlefu Wrote:I'm not sure about the OS now. I don't have the original install CD, so if I format the disc I won't be able to re-install the OS. But if I get the SSD I would want to install the OS on the SSD anyways. At first I thought I could simply upgrade to Windows 8 (which would wipe all data and install the OS), but I figured that might still be a hassle. Adding an OS would be another $100.

He didn't give you the disk! Oh jesus. Yeah if you want to do it the legal way that's another $100 out of your pocket regardless of if you go with win 7 or win 8. Are you a university student by any chance?

turtlefu Wrote:The 400R is the same price as the 500R, so I got the 500R (removable HDD cage seems to be the only difference),

It was $109 last time I checked. Now the difference is only $5. At that price you're right, you might as well get the 500R.

turtlefu Wrote:and that is the cheapest modular Corsair PSU (well, it's only $8 more than the 500W version).

Looks like I screwed up one of my earlier posts when I said this:

NaturalViolence Wrote:If you can get that exact corair psu model that I linked for $50 do it. It was $70 on newegg the last time I checked. Antec, corsair, and seasonic are all very reputable psu brands so you should have no issues buying from any of them.

I went back and fixed it.

Yeah I saw it for $70 on newegg but you said you found it for $50. So I was going by that.

And yes there is only a $10 difference between the 500w and 600w models. So that's up to you. Don't forget to consider the antec psus too (seasonic is also good but they're a bit pricey in this range): http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817371016

turtlefu Wrote:I think waiting for the 800 series is a good idea. The 760 is basically a 660 Ti Boost, while the 800 series are supposed to have a new architecture. And because I don't plan on gaming on Ultra on crazy high resolutions, I think a 650 Ti should be enough for Dolphin/PCSX2/PC gaming in HD. And it's pretty cheap too.

At 1400 x 900 a GTX 650 TI will be plenty for even the latest games. I run at 1920 x 1200 and my GTX 660 is more than enough for me to run pretty much anything I throw at it maxed out at 60 fps.

turtlefu Wrote:(I was thinking about getting a PS3 instead until I found out PCSX2 is capable of outputting games in much higher quality than any of the HD remakes on the PS3, but then that brings up the question of if I want to spend 4x the cost of something just to play something in 1080p instead of 720p)

The problem with getting a PS3 for that is you can only play the remake versions of PS2 games. If a ps2 game wasn't remade there is nothing you can do about it. PCSX2 allows you to play virtually any PS2 game on your PC with high image quality, any input hardware you want, and a long list of other nice features. But yes it does require expensive high end hardware and even that doesn't guarantee that every game will run well (many still won't). However I should point out that whether you're talking about PC gaming, video production, emulation, or anything else the high end specs requirements overlap. So it's not like you're spending all of this money just for PCSX2. You're spending all of this money to have a nice computer. This is one of the many things that you can do with a nice computer.

turtlefu Wrote:Anyways, it turns out that I may not be able to use the 1400x900 monitor.

Why not?

turtlefu Wrote:I alraedy have the other peripherals (game pad, keyboard, mouse, just need bluetooth dongle and wireless sensor bar), would you recommend any particular monitors (hopefully one in HD, with HDMI, hopefully under $200)...

There are a lot of 22-24" (or even 27") 1080p monitors with HDMI in the $100-200 price range. I need more information. Do you prefer glossy or matte? Are you ok with both? How is your room lit? Remember that a glossy monitor is going to give you a lot of reflections in a bright room. Though they do tend to make bright colors look less grainy than matte displays which I personally like.

turtlefu Wrote:EDIT: "Kingston HyperX 4GB (2 x 2GB) DDR3-1600 Memory operating voltage of 1.65V exceeds the Intel Haswell CPU recommended maximum of 1.5V+5% (1.575V). This memory module may run at a reduced clock rate to meet the 1.5V voltage recommendation, or may require running at a voltage greater than the Intel recommended maximum." - PC Part Picker

Should I be worried about this?

No. 1.5v is the recommended voltage for JEDEC DDR3 specs. and by Intel for their IMC. However XMP profiles support up to 1.65v and are approved by Intel too. Although XMP profiles do void the warranty I've never heard of anyone burning out their cpu from using 1.65v ram IC voltage.

Your current memory is also 1.65v, except at 1333 MHz. And while it's ok (although not recommended) to mix different memory capacities, frequencies, and latencies it is never ok to mix different memory voltages. You'll likely destroy something in the process. It is imperative that you only put one of your two memory kits in the system when you start up your system for the first time. Then adjust the frequency/voltage/latency settings manually, save and restart. Turn off the system and unplug it before adding the second kit then reboot. You should have all 4 dimms running at 1333MHz 9-9-9-24 1.65v. Contact me before you do anything if you're unsure. My email is listed in my profile info. and you can PM me too.

It is safer to run at 1.5v but you won't be able to reuse your current kit if you do that. Which means you'll need to buy a more expensive 8GB kit or just stick with a new 4GB kit for now.

I would also like to point out that the SSD you picked is out of stock. I'm surprised that you didn't ask me for a recommendation but here it is: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820147188

$10 cheaper and from a better brand. I have the pro version in my system which has better write speeds. For an extra $35 I don't think it's worth it for you since read speeds are far more important.

I've also noticed that your parts list automatically subtracts the mail in rebates from the price. In other words you aren't getting an accurate number for what your upfront cost will be. I tend to steer clear of mail in rebates and not factor them into my costs since they're usually a pain in the ass to get (assuming you do get them, if you don't you have to bitch to customer support which is even more of a pain). It's a horrible practice that the industry needs to stop. Whatever you do, save all of your boxes until you get the rebates.

I would also advise going with a cheaper motherboard. $175 for a mobo is way too much.

Also make sure your chassis supports 2.5" drives. Otherwise you'll need an adapter: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817997007

Edit: Ok nevermind that last bit. It does support 2.5" drives.

Thanks for all the advice. Because of that big up-front cost and considering I have never built a computer before I decided to go and replace parts a little at a time, starting with the processor, RAM, and motherboard. (Because I've never done this before I am going to be extra safe and just buy new RAM) I think if the Windows 7 version he had isn't the OEM version and is retail I should be able to re-use it even if I hook it up to a new motherboard. I think with me playing PC games the i5-4670K processor will be able to pick up the slack of the IGP, so a "10" processor and a "4" IGP will allow me to play games that require a "5" or "6" graphics card. Correct me if I am wrong. (At least I am hope, and because processor is more important for Emulation I might be able to play some Dolphin games at low res). And since I'd be using the IGP I think faster RAM speds would matter mroe and it might be worth it to invest in faster RAM, like a 1866 C9 G.Skill or a 2133 C11 Corsair.
And Thermal Compound, I'll need that too.

I wouldn't have to cooler or PSU to Overclock right away, can I install the CPU and then overclock later on when I get the new cooler and PSU?

The 1400x900 monitor was not actually "mine". It was my brother's and I was counting on him letting me swap out the 1024x1020 monitor for his 1400x900, but he wouldn't let me. He barely even uses it!

I am indeed a University student, so I do get a discount on Windows. Hopefully though I can find some way to re-use the Windows already installed.

Monitor: I think I prefer matte for a monitor. Uh, I think I like IPS, and I prefer my blacks to be pretty black. It also needs good contrast/brightness because I think many monitors are too dark.

I know rebates are a hassle, but I think I can handle it. The $175 mobo is actually $135 when you take into account the $80 combo discount with the $240 processor. The 4670K can be bought for $200 at MicroCenter but the $80 combo discount effectively brings it down from $240 to $200, and then an additional $40 discount on the motherboard. And an Extreme6 for $135 makes it $5 less than the Extreme4. Or is the Gigabyte UD3H for $140 after combo discount a better deal?

$335 for Mobo and Processor, and either $59 (1600), $65 (1866), or $70 (2133) for RAM. Taking into account my $15 Amazon Gift Card, that leaves me with $55 for 2133 C11 LP Corsair RAM. Not bad.

turtlefu Wrote:Thanks for all the advice. Because of that big up-front cost and considering I have never built a computer before I decided to go and replace parts a little at a time, starting with the processor, RAM, and motherboard.

I'm telling you just knock the graphics card down to a GTX 650 TI for now and you'll be fine. You should go ahead and get the case, HSF, SSD, and PSU in addition to that stuff. If there is any one component you should drop it should be the graphics card. But I wouldn't drop it completely. If I were you I would just knock it down to a lower model in the meantime and upgrade to maxwell (800 series) or HD 9000 series next year.

turtlefu Wrote:(Because I've never done this before I am going to be extra safe and just buy new RAM)

Fair enough.

turtlefu Wrote:I think if the Windows 7 version he had isn't the OEM version and is retail I should be able to re-use it even if I hook it up to a new motherboard.

If that's the case then you could try making a disk image and then extracting that to the SSD:
http://itexpertvoice.com/home/switch-from-a-hard-disk-to-an-ssd-with-little-fuss-and-bother/
http://www.runtime.org/driveimage-xml.htm

turtlefu Wrote:I think with me playing PC games the i5-4670K processor will be able to pick up the slack of the IGP, so a "10" processor and a "4" IGP will allow me to play games that require a "5" or "6" graphics card. Correct me if I am wrong.

Ok, I will. You're wrong. The CPU doesn't do any of the actual rendering calculations (other than sometimes primitive setup). It's not going to speed up rendering at all no matter how fast it is. It will help you run emulators but it won't help you run most PC games.

turtlefu Wrote:(At least I am hope, and because processor is more important for Emulation I might be able to play some Dolphin games at low res).

With dolphin you'll be fine with integrated graphics and a haswell cpu as long as you use a low resolution (640 x 480).

turtlefu Wrote:And since I'd be using the IGP I think faster RAM speds would matter mroe and it might be worth it to invest in faster RAM, like a 1866 C9 G.Skill or a 2133 C11 Corsair.

If you do plan on using the IGP that is correct. Get at least 1866 MHz.

turtlefu Wrote:And Thermal Compound, I'll need that too.

Yes. I guess I don't think about that anymore since I have drawer filled with a dozen or so containers of thermal paste since virtually everything comes with it these days. Your HSF will probably come with some decent paste but since it's so cheap you might as well buy your own anyways just in case the stuff they give you is no good. And for future upgrades.

turtlefu Wrote:I wouldn't have to cooler or PSU to Overclock right away, can I install the CPU and then overclock later on when I get the new cooler and PSU?

Yes. But I would not advise using that psu even in the short term. That brand is just too risky.

turtlefu Wrote:The 1400x900 monitor was not actually "mine". It was my brother's and I was counting on him letting me swap out the 1024x1020 monitor for his 1400x900, but he wouldn't let me. He barely even uses it!

You mean 1024 x 768 don't you? So he gave it to you but now he's taking it back, correct?

turtlefu Wrote:I am indeed a University student, so I do get a discount on Windows. Hopefully though I can find some way to re-use the Windows already installed.

Yes. University students get a 20-25% discount on windows products. So it will set you back $75-80 under the worst case scenario.

turtlefu Wrote:Monitor: I think I prefer matte for a monitor.

Unfortunately IPS displays are pretty much always glossy.

turtlefu Wrote:Uh, I think I like IPS, and I prefer my blacks to be pretty black.

To be honest in this price range black levels aren't going to be that much better on an IPS. Probably noticeable but not a huge difference.

turtlefu Wrote:It also needs good contrast/brightness because I think many monitors are too dark.

That's....odd. Most monitors are far too bright. They calibrate them under the assumption that they're going to be on display at a retail shop (which have extremely bright ambient lighting and need to be seen from far away). They're usually calibrated to something like 300 cd/m2 out of the box. Which is ridiculously bright. That's the equivalent of staring directly into a bright flashlight if you're displaying something with bright colors on the screen. It's going to cause discomfort and wash out the colors in a home/office environment. Usually you need to turn down the brightness from 75-100% to 25-35% to stop it from feeling like your corneas are being burned out.

Maybe you've only seen older LCD monitors which weren't capable of the insane brightness of todays CCFL/LED models?

turtlefu Wrote:I know rebates are a hassle, but I think I can handle it. The $175 mobo is actually $135 when you take into account the $80 combo discount with the $240 processor.

turtlefu Wrote:The 4670K can be bought for $200 at MicroCenter but the $80 combo discount effectively brings it down from $240 to $200, and then an additional $40 discount on the motherboard.

turtlefu Wrote:And an Extreme6 for $135 makes it $5 less than the Extreme4.

That is actually a pretty sweet deal.

turtlefu Wrote:Or is the Gigabyte UD3H for $140 after combo discount a better deal?

An interesting thing about that board is the UEFI supports built in SSD caching. In other words using your SSD as a cache for your HDD. I'll have to look into how effective this is as it might be a nice option for you combined with a small 64 GB SSD that wouldn't require you to transfer the OS off the HDD.

turtlefu Wrote:$335 for Mobo and Processor, and either $59 (1600), $65 (1866), or $70 (2133) for RAM. Taking into account my $15 Amazon Gift Card, that leaves me with $55 for 2133 C11 LP Corsair RAM. Not bad.

Not bad at all. Here are some links to good monitors on newegg in the $100-200 price range that are 1080p capable:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=24-236-262&SortField=1&SummaryType=0&Pagesize=10&PurchaseMark=&SelectedRating=-1&VideoOnlyMark=False&VendorMark=&IsFeedbackTab=true&Page=4#scrollFullInfo
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236288
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824014299
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824260109
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824009483

They are all IPS panels except for the BenQ which is a VA panel. The very first asus monitor has passive stereoscopic 3D capabilities (line interleaved). But it's more expensive than the others and I don't know how much, if at all, you care about 3D. The BenQ will provide by far the best contrast ratio and deepest blacks but will be worse in every other way. Poorer viewing angles, gamma uniformity, color accuracy, and response times (motion blur) compared to the IPS panels. I need to know what specs are the most important to you.

Do they have to be HDMI capable? DVI is just as good. And do they have to be matte? Matte will pretty much force you to use a lower quality TN panel. How is the lighting in your room? Is it prone to reflections? How important is stand adjustment to you?

They're all 23" or 24" and I think that quite frankly you'll be happy with any of them. The asus monitors are matte, the benq is semi-glossy/mild matte, and the dell and acer are very glossy. I think all of the IPS monitors are e-IPS (which would make sense given the price range) and likely use cheaper 6 bit panels. I need more time to check and make sure.

Ugh, yeah. Okay, so if I don't plan on overclocking right away, I can wait to install the HSF. And you're right, that PSU seems pretty unreliable. And if the IGP wouldn't be able to play PC games I would need a 650 Ti...
So: CPU, Motherboard, RAM, PSU, Video Card
Get Later: Case, HSF, SSD
I was planning to replace parts incrementally, but because everything is tied to the motherboard, I'm beginning to think it IS a better idea to build from scratch...

Haha, there is a computer that he bought for our mother that has the Dell monitor, and he rarely uses it. I was counting on him letting me "exchange" the Sony and the Dell, but he won't let me, so the nicer monitor is just sitting there, unused

Yup, the Cooler Master HSF comes with thermal compound. Is Cooler Master compound good or should I buy something like Arctic cooling?

I have only ever used LCD monitors, I've just seen IPS monitors in stores and I think they look better. But no, they don't have to be matte. My small room is lit by single a compact florescent bulb but also have a reading lamp with another one in it. The Asus and Acer are the cheapest, do you think the Acer will be so glossy that it will reflect? One of the things I hate is seeing my reflection in the monitor.
Stand adjustment would be nice, because my desk is low and my chair can't really go low enough. I'm okay with glossy as long as it is not super glossy, like you're staring into a mirror. No, I guess HDMI doesn't matter as much for the monitor. I just thought I would be able to use the HDMI Switching of the motherboard.

EDIT: RE: PS3 On the other hand, games that are unstable in Dolphin but have HD remakes for PS3 perform better on the PS3, such as Beyond Good & Evil. Anyways, I found out that neither Beyond Good and Evil nor Okami are really playable at this point for Dolphin (I just found out about the wiki and compatibility list today), so this whole thing is making me question it..

Arctic cooling MX-4 is probably your best bet for thermal paste as it's one of the most effective and least expensive.

Alright, so.
I decided not to go all out and buy a really expensive computer and build it because the games I most want to play aren't even playable in the current Dolphin build. And I have a Wii/PS2 already so me spending $800 just to play games I already have in HD instead of 480p seems not worth it.
So I decided to just upgrade my current computer for PC gaming instead. (I'll buy the Corsair PSU, which I can re-use, the CM HSF, which I can re-use, and a new motherboard, which I may be able to re-use since the FM3 socket has longevity, but obviously I'll switch to Haswell if I decide later that I'd rather play emulators)

(It's because I found out that the PCI slot on the motherboard is broken, which means the PCI-e slot might be broken as well, so I'm not going to risk it and I'm just going to get a new motherboard)
So I'll get a new motherboard good for overclocking, new cooler that I can re-use for the Haswell build, new PSU that I can re-use for the Haswell build, and new video card which I can re-use. Then I'll overclock that Athlon II X4 635, and I'll be able to enjoy PC games.

I know it's not really the point, but I was wondering what new motherboard I should get for overclocking an FM3/FM3+ processor.

EDIT: It's an Athlon II X4 635
so something like a ASUS M5A97 LE R2.0 or GIGABYTE GA-970A-UD3? Or should I go for the 990FX chipset in case I end up getting a Steamroller processor?

FM3/FM3+ ? You mean "AM3/AM3+" , right ?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157280

Sorry, yeah.
That' s the thing I like about the AM3/AM3+ chipset, it's going to be supported at least until 2014 (maybe 2015). Whereas Intel changes chipsets with every generation.
So I'm trying to think of a good AM3/AM3+ motherboard that has good overclocking or now but will also work if I decide to get a Steamroller processor.

AMD Processors suck for emulation but they are pretty decent for gaming. If I already have one there is no reason to switch to an Ivy Bridge Pentium that offers the same performance when I'll only have to switch chipsets again if I decide to upgrade to Haswell.

EDIT: ASRock Extreme 3 comes with $60 worth of free 1600 RAM. That will save me having to buy some RAM down the road, effectively making the mobo $60. I think I'll go with that. Or maybe the Extreme9 would be the most useful if I'm planning on sticking with Steamroller...

EDIT: Just realized that if I'm replacing PSU I'm not constrained by 400W anymore. I could get a 7870 GHz for $170 w/ Crysis 3. Then again, the CPU would probably bottleneck it pretty bad and by the time I switch to Steamroller or Haswell/Broadwell it would be outdated. So maybe the extra $60 isn't worth it...
Video Card Options:
GTX 650 Ti ($110 - Newegg)
Radeon HD 7850 ($127 - Ebay)
Radeon HD 7870 GHz ($170 - Newegg)

turlefu Wrote:Get Later: Case, HSF, SSD

If you put those high end parts in that crappy case and with no SSD I swear to all of the gods of all religions I will scream in pain so loud that you will hear me from whatever part of the country you're in.

turlefu Wrote:I was planning to replace parts incrementally, but because everything is tied to the motherboard, I'm beginning to think it IS a better idea to build from scratch...

And possibly because I keep telling you to do that?

turtlefu Wrote:Haha, there is a computer that he bought for our mother that has the Dell monitor, and he rarely uses it. I was counting on him letting me "exchange" the Sony and the Dell, but he won't let me, so the nicer monitor is just sitting there, unused

You know crowbars are very cheap these days: http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-3324-18-Inch-Wrecking-Bar/dp/B000NPT684/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1372621858&sr=8-1&keywords=crowbar

turtlefu Wrote:The Asus and Acer are the cheapest, do you think the Acer will be so glossy that it will reflect? One of the things I hate is seeing my reflection in the monitor.

A little bit, probably.

turtlefu Wrote:Stand adjustment would be nice, because my desk is low and my chair can't really go low enough.

Unfortunately in this price range that is a rare feature.

turtlefu Wrote:I'm okay with glossy as long as it is not super glossy, like you're staring into a mirror.

With an IPS panel that's difficult to find.

turtlefu Wrote:No, I guess HDMI doesn't matter as much for the monitor. I just thought I would be able to use the HDMI Switching of the motherboard.

What are you planning on using the HDMI switching for?

You still might be able to use it with a passive HDMI->DVI adapter.

turtlefu Wrote:Yup, the Cooler Master HSF comes with thermal compound. Is Cooler Master compound good or should I buy something like Arctic cooling?

It probably is just as good but it always helps to have some spare thermal paste.

turtlefu Wrote:I decided not to go all out and buy a really expensive computer and build it because the games I most want to play aren't even playable in the current Dolphin build. And I have a Wii/PS2 already so me spending $800 just to play games I already have in HD instead of 480p seems not worth it.

turtlefu Wrote:So I decided to just upgrade my current computer for PC gaming instead. (I'll buy the Corsair PSU, which I can re-use, the CM HSF, which I can re-use, and a new motherboard, which I may be able to re-use since the FM3 socket has longevity, but obviously I'll switch to Haswell if I decide later that I'd rather play emulators)

If you end up switching to haswell anyways you'll have wasted money.

turtlefu Wrote:(It's because I found out that the PCI slot on the motherboard is broken, which means the PCI-e slot might be broken as well, so I'm not going to risk it and I'm just going to get a new motherboard)

How one earth did you draw that conclusion? PCI-e is a totally different bus with a totally different controller

turtlefu Wrote:So I'll get a new motherboard good for overclocking, new cooler that I can re-use for the Haswell build, new PSU that I can re-use for the Haswell build, and new video card which I can re-use. Then I'll overclock that Athlon II X4 635, and I'll be able to enjoy PC games.

The case and SSD are also extremely important.

turtlefu Wrote:That' s the thing I like about the AM3/AM3+ chipset, it's going to be supported at least until 2014 (maybe 2015). Whereas Intel changes chipsets with every generation.

AMD changes their chipsets every generation too. The term you're searching for is socket.

turtlefu Wrote:AMD Processors suck for emulation but they are pretty decent for gaming. If I already have one there is no reason to switch to an Ivy Bridge Pentium that offers the same performance when I'll only have to switch chipsets again if I decide to upgrade to Haswell.

No but you could grab a used i5 3570K which would be cheaper by then. That's almost as fast as haswell.

turtlefu Wrote:EDIT: ASRock Extreme 3 comes with $60 worth of free 1600 RAM. That will save me having to buy some RAM down the road, effectively making the mobo $60. I think I'll go with that. Or maybe the Extreme9 would be the most useful if I'm planning on sticking with Steamroller...

Why would the Extreme9 be more useful?

turtlefu Wrote:EDIT: Just realized that if I'm replacing PSU I'm not constrained by 400W anymore. I could get a 7870 GHz for $170 w/ Crysis 3. Then again, the CPU would probably bottleneck it pretty bad and by the time I switch to Steamroller or Haswell/Broadwell it would be outdated. So maybe the extra $60 isn't worth it...
Video Card Options:
GTX 650 Ti ($110 - Newegg)
Radeon HD 7850 ($127 - Ebay)
Radeon HD 7870 GHz ($170 - Newegg)

They're all good options depending on how much you want to spend.

Are you really that stretched for cash that you can't afford a high end PC?