I would get this case if I was you
Laptop:
Mini PC ::
PCpartpicker
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02-28-2014, 08:00 PM
I would get this case if I was you
Laptop: Mini PC ::
Hmm. You should read this. Whenever buying a case, cable routing is one of the most important considerations. As well as the general assembly and useage of the case. So I always check reviews for analysis on cable routing and assembly. This is what I found.
http://www.anandtech.com/show/5157/nzxt-...n-a-diet/3 Read the full link, but I'll quote the summary below. Anandtech Wrote:My quibbles with the Phantom 410 have to do with assembly. Frankly it's just a pain to put together, from start to finish. The mounting holes in the motherboard tray need to be a lot bigger, the drive trays could stand to be more rigid, and I'm never going to turn down having motherboard standoffs pre-installed. Connecting the AUX 12V line was particularly hellish. In this price range, there are definitely much easier cases to assemble. Anandtech Wrote:The Phantom 410 may be a little more difficult to assemble than competing cases, but it performs right along with the best of them and offers a decent enough selection of features to be worthy of your consideration. At the magical $99 price point there's healthy competition there, but at least if you like how it looks you won't have to make any sacrifices in performance. AMD Threadripper Pro 5975WX PBO+200 | Asrock WRX80 Creator | NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4090 FE | 64GB DDR4-3600 Octo-Channel | Windows 11 23H1 | (details)
MacBook Pro 14in | M1 Max (32 GPU Cores) | 64GB LPDDR5 6400 | macOS 12
03-01-2014, 09:40 AM
(This post was last modified: 03-01-2014, 12:41 PM by NaturalViolence.)
This build is way over the top. The price could easily be cut in half without sacrificing much.
Drop the i7 4770K down to an i5 4670K (no benefit to emulators or current PC games). Drop the 780 TI down to a 770 (only a bit slower but much cheaper). Drop the 4TB HDD down to a 2TB (jesus 4TB? How much porn do you plan on having?). Drop the 850 watt PSU down to 650 or 550 watts (unless you're planning on running SLI/crossfire in the future). Drop the 27" monitor down to a 24" (you won't even notice the difference unless you're sitting 5+ feet away and it will save you $50). Drop the blu-ray burner down to a dvd-burner or bd-drive unless you actually plan on burning BD discs (which nobody does considering the lack of hardware/software support, ridiculous disc prices even after all these years, long load times, slow read/write speeds, poor feature/codec support, etc.). Bump the A-data SSD up to a samsung 840 evo or 840 pro (an extra $15 for a much better SSD is worth it). I have never liked NZXT cases. Both working with them (feature set) and appearance. But that's a bit of personal preference. There are a lot of cases in that price range that I would recommend though. Far too many to discuss here. You can never go wrong with antec, corsair, lian li, silverstone, or cooler master though (corsair being my current favorite). RachelB Wrote:I'd also highly recommend getting a 1440p monitor. They don't cost that much (especially if you don't mind ordering one from korea), and the higher resolution is very nice. What is your definition of "not much"? I've been waiting to buy one for years but the prices have never gotten anywhere close to what I could consider acceptable. The korean ones are poor quality and have no warranty yet they manage to cost twice as much as a good 1080p IPS with warranty ($400 vs $200). The good ones cost 3 to 5 times as much ($600-1000). That's as much as a good desktop build.
"Normally if given a choice between doing something and nothing, I’d choose to do nothing. But I would do something if it helps someone else do nothing. I’d work all night if it meant nothing got done."
-Ron Swanson "I shall be a good politician, even if it kills me. Or if it kills anyone else for that matter. " -Mark Antony 03-01-2014, 12:18 PM
I paid $300 for mine, with shipping. And they aren't really poor quality. If anything, they seem to be better than the more expensive ones sold elsewhere, because it's the exact same panel used by everyone else, but without all the garbage features that no one wants, which results in lower response times. At worst you might get some dead pixels that are too small to even notice outside of a pure black screen.
03-01-2014, 03:21 PM
Which one do you have? The ones I've been seeing are all $350+
Anandtech and others have tested some of these korean 1440p IPS monitors and their specs fall short of their more expensive big brand cousins and their cheaper 1080p cousins. That includes contrast ratio, response times, gamma uniformity, etc. These may be the same panels but they're not the same grade. Big name brands only use A+ grade panels that meet their rigorous quality control standards. While these cheap korean monitors use the A- grade panels that were rejected. The lower grade panels have poorer specs and a higher chance of developing defects like stuck/dead pixels. Combine that with no warranty and you have a pretty risky purchase. You're right that they have less input lag but that's easily compensated for as their other specs are far worse than competitors. And to get the price down they also use poor quality stands/frames, have limited input options, no usb/audio hubs, no OSD or options, etc. None of that stuff necessarily bothers me but for some it can be a deal breaker. I don't think spending an extra $100-200 (effectively doubling the price) and dealing with all these limitations is worth it just to get double the resolution. The good ones cost a fortune and the not so good ones still cost a lot more.
"Normally if given a choice between doing something and nothing, I’d choose to do nothing. But I would do something if it helps someone else do nothing. I’d work all night if it meant nothing got done."
-Ron Swanson "I shall be a good politician, even if it kills me. Or if it kills anyone else for that matter. " -Mark Antony
Shimian QH270-Lite. Price has gone up since i bought it, i guess. I got it towards the end of 2012, for $298.90.
Quote:that's easily compensated for as their other specs are far worse than competitors.They're hardly far worse. A bit, sure, maybe, depending on luck. But for the price, there's no way you're beating it, even if you get a bad one. It really is a huge improvement over 1080p. 03-01-2014, 04:03 PM
(This post was last modified: 03-01-2014, 04:04 PM by NaturalViolence.)
Didn't even know about that one. It's a shame that anandtech only did a short one page review on it and left out most of the important specs in their measurements. Gamma uniformity is particularly important to me and one of the areas where these lower grade panels tend to fall short. Viewing angles, input lag, and response times would have been nice to know too.
What happens if you have some dead pixels right in the middle of the display where they're noticeable? Is there anything you could do about it?
"Normally if given a choice between doing something and nothing, I’d choose to do nothing. But I would do something if it helps someone else do nothing. I’d work all night if it meant nothing got done."
-Ron Swanson "I shall be a good politician, even if it kills me. Or if it kills anyone else for that matter. " -Mark Antony
Depends on the seller. The one i bought from would replace it (for free) if there was more than 1 dead pixel in the middle, or 5 anywhere else. Most also offer an option to guarantee none for a bit more ($30-50 i think at the time, but dead pixels weren't that common, so i didn't bother).
Also, they DO have a warranty, but since you'd have to pay shipping, and probably get someone who speaks korean to translate for you, it may not be worth the hassle.
Thanks for the help. This is my first gaming rig so there's alot I'm always reconsidering. I'm sticking with an i7 just for the hyperthreading aside for the gaming (hands down). Dropping the the 780 Ti for the 770 is probably a smart move since I'm on a relatively tight budget. I personally like big monitors so I'm going for the 27''. I'm getting 16gb DRAM but I'm not sure what reliable brand and if I should get 4x4 or 2x8. I want to have SLI in the near future but not now so 750W seems fine to me. I might want to get a better motherboard for my tower to last longer over so I am leaning towards the Asus. I might just get the Asus Maximus VI Extreme for better quality, features, and an overall lasting PC. I'll reconsider the storage drives. High monitor resolution should be a must for better gaming quality so I'll have to look into that. I'll even reconsider a different chassis other than the Phantom.
So many choices...
Windows 10 x64 , Asus Maximus VI Hero LGA 1150 Z87,
Intel Core i7 4770K OC @ 4.0ghz with Noctua NH-D14 EVGA GeForce GTX 780 Ti Classified, Corsair Vengeance Pro 16GB DDR3 1866MHz, Samsung 840 EVO SSD 120GB, NZXT Phantom 410 (Gunmetal) ATX Mid Tower 03-02-2014, 09:56 PM
(This post was last modified: 03-02-2014, 09:57 PM by teh_speleegn_polease.)
About RAM: theoretically, if your mobo has only four slots and you might upgrade to 32GB in the future, then 2x8 is the way to go. However, really, 32GB will be mostly useless for quite a while still, and by the time you wanna upgrade you'll probably want to get newer RAM as a whole.
Otherwise, unless your mobo has 4-channel DRAM (and I've never seen one like that myself, however I never really looked, so IDK if that's a thing), there will be no speed difference. So whichever one is cheaper will do the job. As for quality... I'm using Corsair Vengeance 2x8GB and I'm quite happy. Corsair in general seems to be a pretty good brand. |
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