Need help pricing + compatibility.

[husain]

So, I already have a gamepad that I prefer to the Wiis, tried it works great. I don't need one of those, I am only interested in the wii-mote.

Couple questions:

1: Wii Motion Plus, does it affect anything is it usable, should I care?

2: How cheap can I go on a basic setup? (1 wii mote, 1 bluetooth dongle, 1 battery + charger, and a sensor bar)

Heres whats listed in my amazon cart right now, if anyone has any alternatives please say so.

Bluetooth dongle: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008IFXQFU

Very on the fence about that one, if anyone has any alternatives that have Atheros chipsets I'd like to hear it.

Controller: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004BWTO4G

Charger + batteries: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004IK24MU

Sensor Bar: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0018QOWEU

(yes I can mod the cable no problem.)

3: On average how important is it to have a wiimote for the general library of games on the Wii?

[pauldacheez]

MotionPlus is required for certain games and is near-impossible to functionally emulate unless you have a gyroscope-equipped controller similar to the Wii Remote; even if you do have a controller like that, there isn't any emulated MotionPlus support implemented (outside of JPeterson's old fork of Dolphin, which neobrain et. al. have consistently refused to merge for code quality reasons), so you'd have to use an actual MotionPlus-equipped remote (built-in or dongle, either's fine). Notable MotionPlus-requisite games include Zelda: Skyward Sword and Wii Sports Resort; others are listed on the wiki: https://wiki.dolphin-emu.org/index.php?title=Category:Wii_MotionPlus_(Input_supported)

On the topic of Wii Remotes themselves, you don't want to waste money on third-party or counterfeit remotes – they rarely connect properly to PCs (and, hell, the one you linked (which is clearly a counterfeit) has reviews that mention it not even working properly with a *real* Wii). First-party remotes, manufactured by Nintendo themselves, are pretty much the only sane way to go, even if they are twice or thrice the price.

Third-party Nunchuks and other attachment controllers, though, are probably free game since they don't have a Bluetooth connection to fuck up the timings/protocol on. For other accessories, I recommend finding a USB/wireless sensor bar (modding the cable, as fun as it is, often results in fire/explosions) and an inexpensive induction charger kit (if possible/reasonable; I have a Nyko set of batteries that I no longer use because they're rather poorly-designed: the copper contact points are too high, which puts them in direct contact with your possibly-sweaty hands, thus they tend to corrode, and you can't easily put them in their cradle and have them charge without the weight/positioning of a Wii Remote; the set of batteries you linked look a good bit better, but I'd honestly prefer something much better than that).

Wii Remotes by themselves are pretty damn important for the general library of Wii games, especially since emulated Wii Remote controls tend to be hard to set up and rather clumsy in actual use (though it can certainly be said that Wii Remotes were clumsy in the first place). They're not nearly as requisite if you're just playing games that support the GameCube 'pad or the Classic Controller, but if you're playing anything that requires any amount of semi-precise accelerometer movement like Wii Sports or Metroid Prime 3, you're gonna want real remotes.

Also, I should probably mention that the Bluetooth adapter you linked is just a Wi-Fi adapter. I'd advise getting the one on the Recommended Accessories page. https://dolphin-emu.org/docs/guides/recommended-accessories-dolphin/

[AnyOldName3]

I'd just like to point out that modding the cable on a Wii bar to make it USB is pretty trivial if you can solder, and have access to a multimeter and a range of weak (around 5 Ohm range) resistors and a USB cable you can cut up. If you don't have this kit, then it's going to be more expensive to buy than using something someone else has made would be. If you do, then I might be able to explain what to do.

Either way, though, you won't get explosions. The easiest mistake just makes the bar too dim to work, and the only other possible mistake (not including obviously stupid things like trying to solder with an arc-welder) is just going to make it sit there and do nothing.

[DZCreeper]

(06-20-2014, 08:58 AM)AnyOldName3 Wrote: I'd just like to point out that modding the cable on a Wii bar to make it USB is pretty trivial if you can solder, and have access to a multimeter and a range of weak (around 5 Ohm range) resistors and a USB cable you can cut up. If you don't have this kit, then it's going to be more expensive to buy than using something someone else has made would be. If you do, then I might be able to explain what to do.

Any guides to this? Just finished converting an internal SD reader to external but that was simple, internal USB headers have the same cabling as external stuff.

[slipd]

I just bought this cheap usb bar, and it works fine I think: http://www.ebay.com/itm/121293270119
Plugged it into my phone's usb wall charger, and yeah the wiimote's cursor gets a bit jittery at longer distances, but it works well at normal range. Only 3 lights on each end though, unlike the original wii bar's 5x2, but I guess this's due to usb's power limitations.

Just wish it had an on/off button.

[AnyOldName3]

The Nintendo bar was originally made with 5x2, then later on they switched to 3x2, but used brighter LEDs with a wider viewing angle. The issue's likely to be just that the bar's using cheap LEDs.

[slipd]

(06-23-2014, 12:46 AM)AnyOldName3 Wrote: The issue's likely to be just that the bar's using cheap LEDs.

Oh, actually I just realized Dolphin had settings for the bar's position and IR sensitivity. Correcting the position setting and lowering the sensitivity from 5 to 4 or 3 added another ~2 feet to the working range between my wiimote and this cheap wii bar. The range's probably still not as far as Nintendo's wired bar's, but I'd guess mine's about 70% of the original's range now.