If you're bothering to change the resistors anyway, then it's just as easy to more or less bypass them completely, and leave all LEDs in place. The viewing angle of the LEDs in the 10 LED bar isn't great, so you'll get blind spots with fewer LEDs. I didn't do this with a genuine nintendo bar, but what I did was measure the voltage across and current through each bank of LEDs when it was connected to the Wii, and used Ohm's law (V=IR) to calculate the resistance I'd need to change the resistor(s) to in order to keep the current and voltage across each resistor constant if I dropped the input voltage to 5v. It turned out that I only needed approx 5 Ohms for each resistor in my non-genuine bar, so I used two diodes instead of two resistors to induce the small voltage drop I needed.
If you can be bothered working this out, you'll end up with a much more reliable bar, and if you know what you're doing with parallel circuits, you may even be able to make it still compatible with Wii power via a different cable (ie the original one that was on it).
If you can be bothered working this out, you'll end up with a much more reliable bar, and if you know what you're doing with parallel circuits, you may even be able to make it still compatible with Wii power via a different cable (ie the original one that was on it).
OS: Windows 10 64 bit Professional
CPU: AMD Ryzen 5900X
RAM: 16GB
GPU: Radeon Vega 56
CPU: AMD Ryzen 5900X
RAM: 16GB
GPU: Radeon Vega 56