Is it possible to emulate the Gamecube controller perfectly?

[ulao]

Hmm well I'm not sure exactly what you are after but I'm sure I have the answers. I know exactly how the console reads the controller and to emulate that you simple do this in the firmware of the adapter its self. Most adapters like Mayflah do not read the full signal string and make some guesses. Also their code is closed and not open source like so many other adapters out there. The adapter I make does read the entire signal and reads the controller in the very same manner as the console does.

but I dont think that is what you are asking...

The next step is to take that info and package it for windows or what ever OS you like. The best way to do this is with a HID drivers. Since just about every OS including some consoles know what HID is and how to read it, its clearly the best choice ( unlike Mayflash that uses a driver ).

Now dolphin simply uses DirrectX to see the HID data. So DX is like a interpreter if you will.
GC controller -> adapter firmware -> HID data -> DX -> dolphin.

Now the problem here is that after you go through all of the chains of commands data is no longer the same, I could send the raw data to Dolphin but a dev would have to read it properly and build an interface for that. Though its pointless really because DX encapsulates it very well.

Again, not sure that is what you are after?

In a simplified vague sense... You can make dolphin read the GC controller in the same manner but there is no way to tell you how as every adapter is not the same. With my adapters you can download a saved layout for the dolphin GCpad and dont have to configure it yourself. Though dont count on mayflash doing that So maybe what you are asking is for someone that has saved a good mayflsh profile so share it with you?

On that note its very important you calibrate the GC pad and also the windows driver first.

from a source on the net

Quote:Like most analog controllers, the GameCube controller self-calibrates when the console is switched on, setting the current analog stick and L and R buttons' positions as "neutral," which may cause problems if the controls are not actually in their neutral position during calibration. Holding down X, Y and start/pause for three seconds at any time will recalibrate the controller. Unplugging and reconnecting the controller, and in the case of the wireless WaveBird controller, turning the controller off and back on, will also force a recalibration.

Calibration in windows is done in the control panel for the adapter. Then and only then, you can set the dead zones to you liking. Again DZ's vary with adapters.

Hope that helped.