I want to get a Dolphin Bar, but...

nintendo_nerd · (This post was last modified: 11-07-2015, 02:49 AM by nintendo_nerd.)

(11-07-2015, 12:49 AM)Jhonn Wrote: Well, mine was one from the first batches, I usually played for around 2 to 3 hours per day at that time. IR LEDs from one of the sides got burnt in around one month...

Yeah, see, that's the deal breaker for me, while I'm sure quality has gotten better, it's still a gamble and I have no soldering equipment, nor the know-how to solder, so I'd be SOL big time, even if I do play in one-hour increments at the most. Ugh, all I can do is apologize to all who replied to my thread and for wasting your guys' time about my being on the fence about this. Sorry. Sad

Edit: I never should have made this thread because all it did was make me realize that the Dolphin bar is a huge gamble as knowing my luck, the thing will have burned out LEDs in < one month of use.

**mbc07** · 11-07-2015, 03:00 AM **#12**

Nah, don't worry. Do you already have a sensor bar? If yes, you can still use DolphinBar to handle the communication if the LEDs burn, just point your wiimote to another sensor bar while using it and you should be good to go. It's not a too good solution but is all I can recommend if you can't solder =/

Or, you could try to get a compatible BT adapter and Toshiba BT Stack, it'll allow using -TR wiimotes but it's a little more complex to setup. Also, you would need a USB or battery-powered sensor bar anyway...

nintendo_nerd · 11-07-2015, 04:11 AM **#13**

(11-07-2015, 03:00 AM)Jhonn Wrote: Nah, don't worry. Do you already have a sensor bar? If yes, you can still use DolphinBar to handle the communication if the LEDs burn, just point your wiimote to another sensor bar while using it and you should be good to go. It's not a too good solution but is all I can recommend if you can't solder =/

Or, you could try to get a compatible BT adapter and Toshiba BT Stack, it'll allow using -TR wiimotes but it's a little more complex to setup. Also, you would need a USB or battery-powered sensor bar anyway...

Yeah, I have the official one for my Wii U, which is hooked up to my PC monitor thanks to the HDMI input, so there is that, I honestly don't know why I'm wary about it, but I am. Sure, it's not terribly expensive, but I would think it would last a relatively long time. At least I would have the other bar to point at as a backup, so it's a solution nonetheless and *sigh* I hate when I overthink lol.

The adapter solution sounds like more trouble than it's worth, but I do know that Wiimote I have is from the 2006 model of Wii consoles, as I got mine in 2007.

**mbc07** · 11-07-2015, 05:03 AM **#14**

Well, if it's not a Wii Remote Plus then it's almost certainly your Wiimote is a non-TR one. Those Wiimotes are trouble free with Dolphin, you only need a BT adapter (it doesn't necessarily have to support Toshiba BT stack as the built-in Microsoft Stack will work in this case)...

nintendo_nerd · 11-07-2015, 06:14 AM **#15**

(11-07-2015, 05:03 AM)Jhonn Wrote: Well, if it's not a Wii Remote Plus then it's almost certainly your Wiimote is a non-TR one. Those Wiimotes are trouble free with Dolphin, you only need a BT adapter (it doesn't necessarily have to support Toshiba BT stack as the built-in Microsoft Stack will work in this case)...

I have the Wii remote along with the motion plus adapter, but not the kind of remote with the motion plus already built in to it. I'd rather get the Dolphin bar as it seems less of a hassle than the Toshiba ones, luckily at least with these, they don't require batteries and don't always have to constantly scan for devices. Now, how well the games work is another story.

**ExtremeDude2** · 11-07-2015, 06:17 AM **#16**

You don't even need toshiba, that is the point.

nintendo_nerd · 11-07-2015, 09:25 AM **#17**

(11-07-2015, 06:17 AM)ExtremeDude2 Wrote: You don't even need toshiba, that is the point.

I know that, he was saying it was a alternative, but the Dolphin Bar would fare much better in general, despite the flaw with LED issues. Ugh. I
doubt my machine can even run most Wii games.

NoZart · 11-08-2015, 07:03 PM **#18**

(11-06-2015, 12:17 PM)Jhonn Wrote: I still didn't find anyone using the right settings (DolphinBar set to Mode 4, Continuous Scanning enabled, Wiimotes set to "Real" in Dolphin 4.0-2241 or newer, preferably the latest development build because 4.0.2 does not work with it) having problems other than the IR LEDs occasionally burning out due overvoltage if you do long play sessions (latest firmware claims to fix this, but knowing DolphinBar inners I'm skeptical about this "fix")...

Now you have. I have been fighting this piece of crap since it came into my home. Randomly it works, but 90% of the time i get "wiimote connected - Wiimote Disconected" at the start of a game. The other modes work ok, using the wiimote as lightgun for mame in mouse mode...

Mode4, Continuous scanning on, wiimote set to real, Build 8113. Trying normal motes and TR ones. Dolphinbar firmware is the one from february.

Waste of money.

nintendo_nerd · 11-09-2015, 04:42 AM **#19**

(11-08-2015, 07:03 PM)NoZart Wrote:
(11-06-2015, 12:17 PM)Jhonn Wrote: I still didn't find anyone using the right settings (DolphinBar set to Mode 4, Continuous Scanning enabled, Wiimotes set to "Real" in Dolphin 4.0-2241 or newer, preferably the latest development build because 4.0.2 does not work with it) having problems other than the IR LEDs occasionally burning out due overvoltage if you do long play sessions (latest firmware claims to fix this, but knowing DolphinBar inners I'm skeptical about this "fix")...

Now you have. I have been fighting this piece of crap since it came into my home. Randomly it works, but 90% of the time i get "wiimote connected - Wiimote Disconected" at the start of a game. The other modes work ok, using the wiimote as lightgun for mame in mouse mode...

Mode4, Continuous scanning on, wiimote set to real, Build 8113. Trying normal motes and TR ones. Dolphinbar firmware is the one from february.

Waste of money.

Ah, looks like we have someone who is having issues with it, much like a good friend of mine still has despite trying every mode and firmware to date, TR and non-TR remotes. I wonder what the devs have to say about this anomaly.

NoZart · (This post was last modified: 11-10-2015, 05:48 AM by NoZart.)

And now for the most weird thing i just stumbled upon: If i disconnect my XBOX One Gamepad (which is connected via USB), the whole thing starts to work.

I am testing this right now, but results are very promising at the moment - is the Gamepad disconnected when i start up dolphin, the wii motes just work, if it is connected, no dice. When Dolphin already runs and i reconnect the Gamepad, the motes continue to work.

Disclaimer: I am on Windows 10