(11-07-2015, 03:00 AM)Jhonn Wrote: Nah, don't worry. Do you already have a sensor bar? If yes, you can still use DolphinBar to handle the communication if the LEDs burn, just point your wiimote to another sensor bar while using it and you should be good to go. It's not a too good solution but is all I can recommend if you can't solder =/
Or, you could try to get a compatible BT adapter and Toshiba BT Stack, it'll allow using -TR wiimotes but it's a little more complex to setup. Also, you would need a USB or battery-powered sensor bar anyway...
Yeah, I have the official one for my Wii U, which is hooked up to my PC monitor thanks to the HDMI input, so there is that, I honestly don't know why I'm wary about it, but I am. Sure, it's not terribly expensive, but I would think it would last a relatively long time. At least I would have the other bar to point at as a backup, so it's a solution nonetheless and *sigh* I hate when I overthink lol.
The adapter solution sounds like more trouble than it's worth, but I do know that Wiimote I have is from the 2006 model of Wii consoles, as I got mine in 2007.
Custom Desktop -
CPU: Intel Core i5 3570 3.4 GHz to 3.8 GHz (Turbo Boost)
GPU: MSI nVidia GTX 660 2 GB GDDR5
RAM: 8192MB DDR3 SDRAM PC2 10600 1333MHz
OS: Windows 7 Professional 64-bit
HDD: 1 TB Western Digital 7200RPM HDD
CPU: Intel Core i5 3570 3.4 GHz to 3.8 GHz (Turbo Boost)
GPU: MSI nVidia GTX 660 2 GB GDDR5
RAM: 8192MB DDR3 SDRAM PC2 10600 1333MHz
OS: Windows 7 Professional 64-bit
HDD: 1 TB Western Digital 7200RPM HDD

