It's going to be harder to make that than the solder-wires-onto-test-pads approach unless you have the relatively specialist tools that tiny surface-mount components need, in which case it would probably be easier.
You also asked about the big number of components, so I'll give a breakdown of what they do:
You also asked about the big number of components, so I'll give a breakdown of what they do:
- Fuse - stops you blowing up the more expensive components if something goes horribly wrong.
- USB connector - Lets you plug a regular USB Micro-B cable in.
- Switch - is a switch. Works as the sync button like the real console had behind the SD card door, but not totally necessary as there's a button in Dolphin that does the same thing.
- Two capacitors - Lots of linear voltage regulators perform better with a capacitor on their input and output to help cover up small wobbles in the supply voltage. Some of the regulators other people have listed have come with the capacitors, so you wouldn't need separate ones.
- Resistor - Pulls down the switch voltage to zero when the switch is disconnected so it's really obvious when it's been pressed and when it's been released. Without a pull-up or pull-down resistor, a disconnected switch works like a capacitor and floats around the same voltage as it was when the switch was closed and maybe gradually goes towards something else, which can leave it in a kinda-pushed state from a chip's perspective, which can confuse digital circuits. I don't actually think this is necessary as I think the Bluetooth board has one of these internally.
- Tiny Molex plug - lets you plug the Bluetooth board in instead of soldering to test pads.
- Linear regulator - supplies the 3.3V the Bluetooth board needs.
OS: Windows 10 64 bit Professional
CPU: AMD Ryzen 5900X
RAM: 48GB
GPU: Radeon 7800 XT
CPU: AMD Ryzen 5900X
RAM: 48GB
GPU: Radeon 7800 XT