How to wire a Wii's Bluetooth Module to a PC USB Port

patracles · 11-11-2016, 03:23 AM **#71**

That is awesome. I will most definitely pick one up when the design is finalized. In the meantime, I will wire my own up and test it on a computer that I don't care about. However, I'm no stranger to soldering so I'm not too worried. What gauge wire is recommended/necessary?

**Armada** · 11-11-2016, 03:26 AM **#72**

(11-11-2016, 03:23 AM)patracles Wrote: That is awesome. I will most definitely pick one up when the design is finalized. In the meantime, I will wire my own up and test it on a computer that I don't care about. However, I'm no stranger to soldering so I'm not too worried. What gauge wire is recommended/necessary?

Also you mentioned "external power supply", but it can just run off USB, all you need is a 5V-to-3.3V regulator.

barat · 11-27-2016, 09:45 AM **#73**

Today I was soldering 1st time in my life (watched 3-4 tutrorials and practiced on old, small board unsoldering/re-soldering it) and I was able to make WML-C43 work ...
Dolphin is recognizing it, BT remembers Wii Motes pairing, and everything seems to work ... I'm Uber-proud Big Grin

If someone think about this adapter - he should try ... this module is cheap on ebay so no big loss if You fail Smile

11-28-2016, 08:55 PM **#74**

Would it be possible to make a version that includes the IR LED's from the sensorbar too? It's like 4 to 6 (?) IR LED's extra to be powered from the USB, so I'm guessing that won't make a big difference.
Idk how it'd be easiest to realize this, but I was thinking something along the lines of 3D printing an enclosure where you have a standard bar with this module also enclosed in the casing (in the foot i.e.)...

I'm using 2 candles atm to emulate the IR light emitted, haven't gotten around to re-soldering my spare sensor-bar :p

mimimi · 11-29-2016, 12:59 AM **#75**

I think that would make the adapter much more expensive. One option i asked about was to include a socket for an original sensor bar. That would also make it more expensive, since the sensor bar needs more than 5V and there's no cheap way to get that socket.

barat · 11-29-2016, 01:10 AM **#76**

Sensor Bar is just an IR light emitter ... IMO best option is to buy cheap bar which uses AAA batteries and just buy accu like Eneloop for this Smile

It's not big deal to turn it on/off manually ...

11-29-2016, 08:46 AM **#77**

Thanks for posting this diagram. I was able to find the 3.3v regulator and the bluetooth module, but what is the piece at the top right? a sync switch i think?
Anyway, is it necessary and if so, where can we purchase one?

**AnyOldName3** · 11-29-2016, 09:18 AM **#78**

You might want to edit your post, as your text has gone in completely the wrong place. Anyway, to answer your question, the thing at the top right is indeed a switch to be used as a sync button.

barat · 11-29-2016, 09:32 AM **#79**

You don't have to wire this button (I omitted it) - Dolphin is allowing You to assign one on keyboard ... with original Wii BT You won't be syncing so often Wink

11-29-2016, 08:26 PM **#80**

Regarding this Sync button:
Which sync does it start? PC/Dolphin sync I suppose. That means I have to sync the Wii Remote at the same time. RVL-CNT-01 with the red button in the battery area and RVL-CNT-01-TR by pressing 1 + 2. Is this correct? I have to open my battery cover and press the red button every time I want to start playing. Does the Orgininal BT Module also need this sync? Or only the "software" snyc by dolphin. Otherwise I have to buy RVL-CNT-01-TR and then I only must press 1 + 2?

Regarding the 3,3 V source issue:
Before buying this voltage regulator (5V -> 3,3 V) and soldering, I would use the 3,3 Voltage from the ATX power supply in the PC. It's the orange cabels in the ATX cabel (Pin 1 and 13). What do you think about that option?