How to wire a Wii's Bluetooth Module to a PC USB Port

[Andressote93]

Hi everybody,


I´ve done 3 different adapters for Dolphin, all of them worked well, very stable even with 4 Wii Remotes in NSMBW using DX12, the only issue with all the adapters is the Wii Remote speaker sound quality. It has a ver poor sound quality in all games and my biggest reason for modding this adapter was the sound in Wii Remotes. So, has anybody any solution for this issue??? Can i do something to boost the Wii Remote Comunication with the adapter??? Because i´ve noticed that if the Wii Remote is very close to the adapter, the sound quality goes better.

Thanks by the way¡¡¡¡

[DacoTaco]

(01-10-2020, 02:44 AM)DacoTaco Wrote: trust me if i say, i haven't forgotten about it.
its been a busy few months ( moving out takes a lot of time and funding lol ).
like i mentioned before though ive created a quick prototype that can be easily ordered on jlcpcb.com via the easyeda tools for around 20$
but thats the unassembled pcb (which should still work if you attach the required LD1117S33T or 3.3V regulator of your choice and a usb connector )

ive been looking for a cheap assembly service that can get the molex connector but no such luck so far..

due to funding ive also not been able to order the molex connectors, the pcb and a wii bluetooth module either. xD
the prototype is created purely on measurements i took of my own wii's module!

well,

i just got the sockets required to just put the module in place and soldered one to my boards. as expected, no problems ( picture here and here )
as expected the board is fine and can be used by anyone that feels like doing to or using it in a project using the links above.

Parts list is in the attachements below (BOM.xls)
estimated cost : 20-30ish $ (+ the cost of a bluetooth module )

Required Parts :
- the LD1117S33TR 3.3V regulator

Optional but recommended :
2x 100nF capacitors

fully Optional :
1x 0.5A 5V fuse ( bridge 'fuse' pads when not using a fuse )
1x micro USB port ( if not used, an usb cable can be soldered to test points on the left )
1x Molex 0541020164 connector ( if not used, the module test points can be soldered to the pcb directly )
1x 6x6mm smd switch

[Darklinkreturns]

(04-02-2020, 06:17 AM)DacoTaco Wrote: well,

i just got the sockets required to just put the module in place and soldered one to my boards. as expected, no problems ( picture here and here )
as expected the board is fine and can be used by anyone that feels like doing to or using it in a project using the links above.

Parts list is in the attachements below (BOM.xls)
estimated cost : 20-30ish $ (+ the cost of a bluetooth module )

Required Parts :
- the LD1117S33TR 3.3V regulator

Optional but recommended :
2x 100nF capacitors

fully Optional :
1x 0.5A 5V fuse ( bridge 'fuse' pads when not using a fuse )
1x micro USB port ( if not used, an usb cable can be soldered to test points on the left )
1x Molex 0541020164 connector ( if not used, the module test points can be soldered to the pcb directly )
1x 6x6mm smd switch

I'm looking to make one of these, following your link I see a 'Wii Bluetooth PCB' and a 'Wii Bluetooth PCBv2'. What are the differences, and which should I use?

[Tayyo]

Can you help me with this https://forums.dolphin-emu.org/Thread-soldering-nunchuck-cables-to-the-wiimote

[DacoTaco]

(05-03-2020, 11:13 AM)Darklinkreturns Wrote: I'm looking to make one of these, following your link I see a 'Wii Bluetooth PCB' and a 'Wii Bluetooth PCBv2'. What are the differences, and which should I use?

the v2 is a version i still need to order and check. instead of the holes (which are harder to solder) it has gaps which can easily be aligned with the module for direct soldering.
feel free to try it , it is the only difference hardware wise. however it has never been tested before.

v1 is harder to solder the module on directly ( you'll need to either push the solder through it or put it on and heat it from the other side).

[Darklinkreturns]

(05-04-2020, 07:21 AM)DacoTaco Wrote: the v2 is a version i still need to order and check. instead of the holes (which are harder to solder) it has gaps which can easily be aligned with the module for direct soldering.
feel free to try it , it is the only difference hardware wise. however it has never been tested before.

v1 is harder to solder the module on directly ( you'll need to either push the solder through it or put it on and heat it from the other side).

shouldn't be an issue if I intend to use the molex connector instead of direct soldering though, correct?

[DacoTaco]

(05-04-2020, 11:40 AM)Darklinkreturns Wrote: shouldn't be an issue if I intend to use the molex connector instead of direct soldering though, correct?

if you plan on using the molex connector then either version is fine, ye.

(i would just recommend v2 incase you end up having to solder it directly)

[Silent Hell]

(04-02-2020, 06:17 AM)DacoTaco Wrote: well,

i just got the sockets required to just put the module in place and soldered one to my boards. as expected, no problems ( picture here and here )
as expected the board is fine and can be used by anyone that feels like doing to or using it in a project using the links above.

If you're ever taking preorders, I'd be happy to throw money at you.

[Darklinkreturns]

(05-05-2020, 02:06 AM)DacoTaco Wrote: If you plan on using the molex connector then either version is fine, ye.

(i would just recommend v2 incase you end up having to solder it directly)

Ordered the V2 kinda just experimentally, the intended gaps came out kinda weird though. Ended up just using a pair of tweezers to push the excess material back into place and soldered the bluetooth chip directly, haven't gotten all the components yet so I haven't finished assembly, but I checked continuity between the points to make sure there wasn't any bridging at least
   

[DacoTaco]

(06-11-2020, 03:54 AM)Darklinkreturns Wrote: Ordered the V2 kinda just experimentally, the intended gaps came out kinda weird though. Ended up just using a pair of tweezers to push the excess material back into place and soldered the bluetooth chip directly, haven't gotten all the components yet so I haven't finished assembly, but I checked continuity between the points to make sure there wasn't any bridging at least

huh, thats... interresting.

i guess i'm pushing factories capabilities here xD
where was this ordered?
pcbway apparently were able to do it.
thanks for the pictures

i do assume the gaps made it easier to solder to the module?