Hi...my homemade USB sensor bar uses diodes for a voltage drop, and they work exactly as intended, and don't get any hotter than the LEDs themselves. In this case, a chip causing a 3.5V drop is going to put out more heat than a pair of diodes with a combined 1.5V drop when the current is the same, so if the chip's not melting, then the diodes will be fine.
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How to wire a Wii's Bluetooth Module to a PC USB Port
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05-14-2019, 06:47 AM
I didn't know anyone else had used diodes for their sensor bar - I thought I was the only one.
OS: Windows 10 64 bit Professional
CPU: AMD Ryzen 5900X RAM: 16GB GPU: Radeon Vega 56 05-17-2019, 03:25 AM
So my bluetooth adapters have shown up. I had majorly overestimated how big they were going to be, so soldering is going to be harder, but fitting one into my sensor bar is going to be much, much easier, and shouldn't require any dremmeling or 3D printing.
I'm hoping that my modified sensor bar already has a 3.3V thing I can use so I won't have to dismantle anything to steal a VRM, but it's so long since I made it that I don't remember the voltage it runs at, or even if the LEDs are in series or parallel.
OS: Windows 10 64 bit Professional
CPU: AMD Ryzen 5900X RAM: 16GB GPU: Radeon Vega 56 05-17-2019, 03:34 AM
Yeah, I have a choice of 4.8V, 4.0V and 2.7V, so I'm going to need a separate VRM.
OS: Windows 10 64 bit Professional
CPU: AMD Ryzen 5900X RAM: 16GB GPU: Radeon Vega 56 05-17-2019, 06:37 AM
Hi, ive got a problem when playing with two Controllers Mario Party or Just Dance with Bluetooth passthroug. I build me an Bluetooth Device from an original Wii wo USB. Works fine with one Controller. But if i user two Controllers i get after some Time the message, that the device is maybe incompatible and after a while the second controller goes off.
Thats the Log Entry: Code: 21:29:160 core\dsp\dspanalyzer.cpp:154 I[DSPLLE]: Finished analysis.Anyone an idea ? Thanks for help 05-17-2019, 09:21 AM
I've now pulled a 3A regulator of a motherboard, but it's a choose-your-own-voltage one, so it's going to have extra components around it, and I've been unable to get the right voltage out of it with fixed resistors and seem to require a potentiometer, which is mess I don't want. I'm considering buying a fixed-voltage one instead or maybe using a ~3.5V voltage difference I've found in my custom Wii bar when probing in places I didn't earlier.
What's the current draw for the J27H002, and do we know its voltage tolerance?
OS: Windows 10 64 bit Professional
CPU: AMD Ryzen 5900X RAM: 16GB GPU: Radeon Vega 56 05-25-2019, 09:03 PM
Made another but using 6cm wires, looks much better. I guess ideally you'd want even shorter, but am too lazy to cut them up and strip them.
![]() I also wrote up what things I used for them and gathered info and schematics throughout the thread into a single page on my site: https://rys.pw/converting_wii_s_bluetooth_module_to_a_usb_dongle And made a video of it for those scared of making their own. If my clumsy hands can do this, yours can too! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oV4hZxbOkXI 05-26-2019, 04:15 AM
Its not the best idea to put the bt module so close to the usb port. PC has lots of EMI. Range Will be greatly improved if you separate the bt module from the pc case at least 10cm.
05-30-2019, 03:24 AM
So I've had mixed success. I managed to get the thing to connect once with WinUSB installed via Zadig, but because the screen was magenta, I didn't manage to test it beyond that. Eventually, after deleting all of Dolphin's config and cache, I got it to display a picture, but by then, the Wiimote wouldn't sync any more. Is the wiki still accurate on the best way to get passthrough working with a real adapter?
OS: Windows 10 64 bit Professional
CPU: AMD Ryzen 5900X RAM: 16GB GPU: Radeon Vega 56 05-30-2019, 03:35 AM
From many headaches I've had with this in the past, I found that Zadig + WinUSB works best for me. Second best: Zadig + Libusk. Worst: usbdk.
Windows 10 Pro x64 | i7-9700K @ 4.6-5.0GHz | MSI Z370 Gaming Plus | MSI RX 5700 8GB Factory-OC | 16 GB DDR4-3000
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