Hardware Discussion Thread

[admin89]

Yes , 1 week or two ...
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819117559

[Anti-Ultimate]

Got my $$$ back for the Y50 and decided to order a Clevo P651SE instead. Didn't want to waste the extra money, but that seems like I have to now.

[admin89]

i7 4720HQ + GTX 970m ?

[Anti-Ultimate]

(09-01-2015, 08:32 PM)admin89 Wrote: i7 4720HQ + GTX 970m ?

Yes

[DacoTaco]

(09-01-2015, 07:14 PM)admin89 Wrote: Why did you pair a locked multiplier CPU with an expensive mobo for overclocker ?
It should be either i5 4690k + Z97 or i5 4460 + H81

features
to be fair, i didn't look if the mobo had the multiplier unlocked or not. it had some features i wanted. that, and this will last longer then my previous choice which iirc was a mid range h97 chipset
and the unlocked i5 was a bit to expensive >_<

also, the supplier didn't have much choice either

(09-01-2015, 07:16 PM)Anti-Ultimate Wrote:

(09-01-2015, 05:06 PM)DacoTaco Wrote: personally, i wanted to wait for skylake but my computer said no...

It's out already!?

yes but not long enough for prices of previous gen to go down

[Xtreme2damax]

I think I mentioned here or elsewhere my second GTX 460 I ran in SLI failed. It started throwing TDR's in SLI and on it's own it crashes the system as soon as the Nvidia driver initiates on boot. Up until that point I was experiencing sub-par performance and terrible stutter in SLI. I was also getting white line artifacting on cold boot indicative of faulty Vram or Vram failure. Now I get a black screen but I can hear Windows logging in.

I wanted to try baking it or taking a heat gun to it. Problem is I stripped one of the screws to remove the heatsink. Is there any way to carefully remove these tiny screws without risking damage to the pcb? Screw is stripped bad, just a round indentation now with no way to remove with a screwdriver. I'm not sure if it's safe to drill down to extract the screw. No superglue on hand, rubberband method don't work. No dremel to make new indentation. So wat do?

Now my other GTX 460 is giving the same problem. White line artifacting on cold boot. Performance possibly sub-par from what I should be experiencing, no horrid stutter though. There's a lifetime warranty on my remaining GTX 460 if I didn't do something stupid like removing the serial etc.. stickers from the pcb. Upgrading gpu is at least another month or two away. If I can get this working again I might sell them off or throw in another system at some point.

Thanks.

[AnyOldName3]

No chance of grabbing the screw with little pliers?

[Xtreme2damax]

(09-29-2015, 09:03 AM)AnyOldName3 Wrote: No chance of grabbing the screw with little pliers?

There's nowhere to grip, needle nose pliers slip off. I don't want to damage the pcb because there's a chance it can be saved if it's just the Vram which it sounds like.

[Garteal]

Well you're the only one that can really judge it and it looks like you've tried most, if not all alternatives.
Perhaps a picture would help? Then again, if its completely stripped, the only way to do it is to drill.... very... carefully.

And you're not the only one messing with old GPUs. I just replaced the TIM of my old HD4870 a couple of days ago. Went from 90c back to sane temps (40/50).

[Xtreme2damax]

Yeah it looks like drill or dremel is the only way.

I just want to get the second gpu working again until I have the money next month or the month after. I had most of the cash needed for a new gpu but I wanted to purchase a new AC because keeping my house and therefore my system cooler was a priority. In the summer my home absorbs heat, we're talking these old style tin can mobile homes. Vram failing was prolly due to heat but maybe I can reflow the solder and it will be good as new.

Should I get this GTX 460 working I may sell them or use them in a cheap build for LAN games with friends/family, or for streaming games with Steam.