Ok results are in on the bar. The 12 volt conversion fixed all my problems. The cursor is not quite as smooth as the wii but center is center ( where I point ). I know that is a big gripe about the wii in general but I'm very pleased.
Ok how to convert. I just used a 12 volt switching ac to dc converter. I highly recommend a switching type do to the nature of the device, I think an over voltage would be bad. I see no reason a normal analog convert would work but I have a feel for these things. The wii-bar had a red and grey wire, making no assumptions I opened it up to be sure. They even labeled the board ( go figure ) so its clear red was +12 and grey was ground.
scummos. these IR's are in series. I forget ATM, but I think there were 5 per side where the wireless ( 4.5 volt ) has 3 per side. Dont feel like doing the math ATM ;P
NOTE: I found the distance is critical, I think the wii suggests 8 feet? Also the cursor does vanish at times and it takes a bit to get it back. I think the emulation of the pointer is still a bit faulty, most certainly in some game other then some others.
Ok how to convert. I just used a 12 volt switching ac to dc converter. I highly recommend a switching type do to the nature of the device, I think an over voltage would be bad. I see no reason a normal analog convert would work but I have a feel for these things. The wii-bar had a red and grey wire, making no assumptions I opened it up to be sure. They even labeled the board ( go figure ) so its clear red was +12 and grey was ground.
scummos. these IR's are in series. I forget ATM, but I think there were 5 per side where the wireless ( 4.5 volt ) has 3 per side. Dont feel like doing the math ATM ;P
NOTE: I found the distance is critical, I think the wii suggests 8 feet? Also the cursor does vanish at times and it takes a bit to get it back. I think the emulation of the pointer is still a bit faulty, most certainly in some game other then some others.
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