Nah, that wouldn't help. I would just suggest using a different adapter, preferably the Wii BT module if you can solder. Or wait for a USB connector (which is currently an ongoing project AFAIK).
Bluetooth Passthrough
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11-10-2016, 01:57 AM
(10-25-2016, 03:51 AM)Jhonn Wrote: With some soldering skills you can make it power the IR LEDs all the time, I did this on mine... I'm curious how to do this. My bar had old firmware and was working fine just providing the LEDs but then someone decided to update it. Being forced to use it instead of passthrough on another dongle feels like absolute garbage. 11-10-2016, 03:26 AM
(11-09-2016, 03:27 AM)leolam Wrote: Nah, that wouldn't help. I would just suggest using a different adapter, preferably the Wii BT module if you can solder. Or wait for a USB connector (which is currently an ongoing project AFAIK). I don't have my soldering iron anymore. I think I'll wait for the new version of the Dolphin Bar.
OS : Windows 11 Pro
CPU : i7-7700K (4.8 GHz) GPU : GTX 1080 Ti FTW3 HYBRID (2 GHz) RAM : G.Skill Trident Z RGB 16 GB DDR4 3000 MHz C14 Dolphin : latest dev 11-10-2016, 08:58 AM
(11-10-2016, 01:57 AM)RedWaltz Wrote: I'm curious how to do this. My bar had old firmware and was working fine just providing the LEDs but then someone decided to update it. Being forced to use it instead of passthrough on another dongle feels like absolute garbage. It's pretty straightforward, the IR LEDs are powered from a pin of the MCU present on the board. There's also a voltage regulator on the DolphinBar PCB, you simply run a wire from it directly to the resistor that connect into the IR LEDs, completely bypassing the MCU (each side is made of two "arrays", connected in series, the main one have the three LEDs pointing forward and the other have the two angled ones).
Avell A70 MOB: Core i7-11800H, GeForce RTX 3060, 32 GB DDR4-3200, Windows 11 (Insider Preview)
ASRock Z97M OC Formula: Pentium G3258, GeForce GT 440, 16 GB DDR3-1600, Windows 10 (22H2) 11-11-2016, 02:10 AM
The reason they now are off while wiimotes are not connected is because the old version overheats and destroys the LED and/or circuitry on the Dolphinbar. The new version does not have this problem and the LEDs are always on. https://www.amazon.com/Mayflash-W010-Wir...dolphinbar
You can tell which is the new model because the box wont have a clear window and the device itself has a on/off switch aswell as a top/bottom.
Yes, that happened to me. However, making the IR LEDs turn off while not in use doesn't solve the problem (after all the problem was MayFlash overpowering the IR LEDs), long playthrough sessions would still burn them. Anyway, I've already replaced the burnt LEDs and now I'm using a proper resistor to avoid this design flaw plus the modding I mentioned earlier to get them always on (almost a year since the moddings and it's still running fine). I would gladly buy a new Dolphin Bar if I didn't have to pay abusive shipping rates like I had with this DolphinBar v1 I have.
The only thing that would convince me to buy a new one (and deal with the shipping and taxes) would be a DolphinBar v3 fully compatible with Dolphin's Bluetooth Passthrough functionality (as I don't think the hardware from current DolphinBars can handle that), but I bet the custom PCB design for the Wii Bluetooth modules Armada and the others are working on will probably be finished before this happens (if that ever happens)...
Avell A70 MOB: Core i7-11800H, GeForce RTX 3060, 32 GB DDR4-3200, Windows 11 (Insider Preview)
ASRock Z97M OC Formula: Pentium G3258, GeForce GT 440, 16 GB DDR3-1600, Windows 10 (22H2)
It's really for accidentally leaving it on for long periods lol, this is how i burned out my first Dolphinbar. It isnt a fix, but it can help with a few cases of just leaving it on without using it. The second one of the same version I actually tried to replace the LEDs but it failed, seems circuitry burned out on mine aswell as the LEDs.
(11-11-2016, 12:32 PM)Woogoo Wrote: It's really for accidentally leaving it on for long periods lol, this is how i burned out my first Dolphinbar. Err, no. The first time they burned, I updated to the newer firmware then replaced the ones that were burnt. After that, one hour of Dolphin usage was enough to burn the LEDs from the other side of my DolphinBar. In other words, that's a design flaw of the DolphinBar (at least on v1) and the firmware update doesn't fix it. The second time I also decided to replace the resistors with proper ones, but I measured the voltage the original resistors provided before replacing, they were providing around 2.5V to each LED, which is way higher than the typical 1.2~1.5V IR LEDs generally uses, and that's the cause of the burnt LEDs. No firmware update can fix that, and the fact they released a new firmware trying to mitigate the issue and even a new hardware revision with an on/off switch for the LEDs just reinforces that they know the DolphinBar v1 had design flaws.
Avell A70 MOB: Core i7-11800H, GeForce RTX 3060, 32 GB DDR4-3200, Windows 11 (Insider Preview)
ASRock Z97M OC Formula: Pentium G3258, GeForce GT 440, 16 GB DDR3-1600, Windows 10 (22H2) 11-11-2016, 01:40 PM
On the wikipage here https://wiki.dolphin-emu.org/index.php?t...ic_adapter
it says " Forcing a specific adapter[edit] If you need to use a specific adapter, instead of using the first Bluetooth adapter that is found, you can force Dolphin to use it by editing Dolphin's configuration file (Config/Dolphin.ini). In the BluetoothPassthrough section, set "VID" and "PID" to your adapter's vendor ID and product ID (that you previously converted from hex to decimal). " That file is in some insanely obscure user documents folder on Windows 10. This can be changed to the sane "Dolphin\User\Config" directory by creating an empty file "portable.txt" in the Dolphin emulator directory. An GUI option so the the Userconfig directory (under Paths) would be great, but it works this way. Bluetooth passthrough works amazingly perfect! A GUI option to choose the device with PID/VID from a list would be great, too, just like it is in Zadiq. 11-26-2016, 12:01 PM
(11-11-2016, 12:48 PM)Jhonn Wrote: Err, no. The first time they burned, I updated to the newer firmware then replaced the ones that were burnt. After that, one hour of Dolphin usage was enough to burn the LEDs from the other side of my DolphinBar. In other words, that's a design flaw of the DolphinBar (at least on v1) and the firmware update doesn't fix it.I can't for the life of me get any of the bluetooth adapters from the wiki that say can remember bluetooth pairings to remember them when relaunching dolphin. I've tried reinstalling the driver, forcing the adapter, latest dev build and deleting the .bak file nothing works! I've tried at least 5 adapters. I tried the [color=#000000]Azio BTD-V201 (exact model on wiki) and the Kinovo BTD-400 (exact model on wiki), neither of them will remember pairings no matter what i do! What is going on?[/color] |
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